Julie Hewett Cosmetics

Nude Noir Lipstick, Pinkie Shimmy, Natural Cheekie, Sophia Lip Lush

Julie Hewett is an acclaimed Hollywood television, film and event makeup artist who decided to create her own eponymous line after formulating a collection of perfect red lipsticks for the movie Pearl Harbor. The line is small and new products are borne out of necessity and collaboration with some of her famous clients. The Mandy palette was created after working with Mandy Moore, for example, and the new Destiny Cheekie was formulated with Miley Cyrus' input. I've acquire a nice little collection of Julie Hewett products over the years and find them to be high quality and sophisticated. The line is available at select boutiques and via juliehewett.net.

Cheeks:
Cheekies are potted cream cheek and lip colors that are available in pots ($24) and now palette ($18) form. The formula is a true dense cream (and not cream to powder) so you are left with a youthful dewiness on your cheeks without grease. Julie sells a Chubby Cheekie Brush ($28) that I often use as an applicator for these, but if I'm in a rush I've found my fingers work just fine.
Clockwise left to right: Peachie, Rosie, Jami and Natural
Peachie (a bright but sheer peachy coral pink) and Rosie (a sheer raspberry pink)
Natural (a warm natural brown pink) and Jami (a cooler, mauvier pink)
Shimmies are iridescent highlighting creams for cheeks and eyes. Like the Cheekies, they come in both pot ($22) and palette ($18) choices. Pinkie, pictured at the top, is a silvery golden pink cream that is dewy but not oily. I tap it lightly in a C shape from my upper cheekbone to temple for a glow. Pixie, below, is new and a soft sheer lilac shimmer. This would be gorgeous tapped on the brow bone or center of the eye lid.

Left to Right:
Pixie Shimmy, Natural Cheekie, Destiny Cheekie, Jami Cheekie

Lipsticks and Glosses:
Julie has several lipstick formulations ($20-$22.50) in her line including the Noir Collection (a series of perfect reds), Bijou Collection (translucent shades scented with orange blossom), Sheer Collection (2 sheer variations on red) and Icon of Beauty Collection (honoring present-day screen sirens). There really is a red for everyone in this line, though I am partial to Nude Noir lipstick (pictured above) which Julie describes as a Nude Red but I call a deep shimmery pink nude that lasts all day and the Bijou Lipstick in Celeste (not pictured) which is a sheer pinky peach.

The line's lip gloss is called a Lip Lush ($20) and is deliciously scented with ginger. It's not at all sweet or cloying but is refreshing and different, almost relaxing. The Lip Lushes are not the least bit sticky and are creamy and soothing. Sophia, pictured above, is a natural deep pink brown with no shimmer. These glosses feature a doe foot applicator.

Eyes:
Julie has a new line of powder shadows ($10+palette) joining her Hue cream shadow/liner colors ($14 pot/$18 palette) and Too Good to be True pencils ($15). The Too Good to be True Pencil in Fig is a deep evergreen that glides on. The application isn't as smooth as say, UD 24/7 eye liners or Laura Mericer Kohls, but the pencil doesn't drag or tug like a lot of pencil liners.

You can also experience Julie Hewett's signature Camellia Balm, choose from a premade palette or create a custom one, find brushes and applicators and other great products on her site.

Loose Mineral Blushes

I used to have a very large Bare Escentuals collection (what can I say, the boutique offered free pastries on Sunday). I branched out into other mineral lines and had a lot of products on my hands at one point! I eventually realized that my insomniac, uncaffinated self + loose minerals + early morning=big, big mess and either gave away or tossed most of it. I kept a few key products and eventually acquired a few more, with the Laura Mercier Mineral Blush having arrived today.

Clockwise from top. Please click the picture to enlarge:

• Susan Posnick ColorMe in Camelia ($32)-This little pot features a puff on top and a mirror on the lid for easy travel. It is a bright but sheer coral pink with gold shimmer.
• Bare Escentuals Bare Radiance ($18)- A sheer pinky nude shimmer that I use over cream blush for a dewy glow.
• Bare Escentuals A Little Sun ($18)- A light warm pinky brown bronzer with shimmer. The color is warm without being orange.
• Laura Mercier Mineral Color Blush in Amberstone ($22)- a warm nude shimmer. More pigmented and definitely warmer than Bare Radiance.
• Bare Escentuals Golden Gate Blush ($18)- a neutral pink with a hint of coral. This blush isn't shimmery per se but has a radiance to it.

LM Amberstone and Susan Posnick Camelia


LM Amberstone, BE Bare Radiance, BE A Little Sun, BE Golden Gate, Susan Posnick Camelia

Eyes and Lips of the Day!

I used two of my fvorite brands today--Rock & Republic and Hourglass. R&R makes some of the best eyeshadows I've tried and Hourglass makes my favorite lip glosses.

Eyes are Rock & Republic Exile last to crease and on the lower lash line, with Hourglass Calligraphy Liquid Eye Liner in Indigo ($32) to line on the top. The liner is a deep blue with a hint of green in it.

Lips are Hourglass Gloss in Ignite, a gorgeous pinky beige. Click to read more about my love affair with Hourglass glosses.

RIP Rock & Republic Cosmetics. A Rock & Republic Eye of the Day

I've made my love for Rock & Republic Cosmetics well known in my previous entries and unfortunately it turns out that the line is closing down. The good news is that several Neiman Marcus stores have the brand marked down between 40-50% (the sale has not hit the website yet). The bad news is that these superbly pigmented eye shadows and smooth glowy blushes are not long for this world. I strongly disagreed with the company's marketing strategy from the get-go: virtually ignore the rest of the line while promoting a mediocre $225 bronzer in a crystal-studded case. Whenever I spoke to someone about the line, their first comment was inevitably "oh, that line is so expensive." In truth, the line was priced along the lines of brands like Guerlain and YSL, and was cheaper than Chanel. And when you consider that the shadows and blushes contain 2-3 times the amount of product found in comparable lines, R&R is, gram-for-gram, a pretty good deal for outstanding quality. That message never came across and unfortunately the line did not succeed.

In honor of my beloved R&R, here is my eye of the day:
* Rock & Republic Veil Eye Shadow lash to brown (a soft pale ecru)
* Rock & Republic Snakeskin in the crease and smoked out (a murkey shimmery olivine)
* Bobbi Brown Forest Shimmer Ink Eye Liner
* Prescriptives (another brand that will soon but shuttering it's doors) False Eyelashes Mascara
* MAC Browning (from the Porcelain/Browning duo) powder for brows

Here is a link to my prior posts about Rock & Republic in the hope that they can help you with color selection should you choose to take advantage of the sale or try the line!

Face of the Day-10.5.09

• Bobbi Brown Shadow Basics Palette
• Laura Mercier Creme Cheek Pot
• Prescriptives False Eyelashes Mascara
• Guerlain KissKiss Baby Lipstick
  

Using It All Up

Every now and then, I look at my vast makeup collection and suddenly have the urge to start using products up! It generally stems from either being all-of-a-sudden overwhelmed by the sheer number of products that I have, or realizing that I've been using a product so frequently I'm making a dent in it. So far this year I've managed to use up 2 lipsticks (Clinique Buttershine in Adore U and Lorac Stylin), thanks to concentrated effort, and currently have a few products on my "use up" list. Since I'm convinced that product quantities multiply in my sleep :) using a product up can take a very long time (even forcing myself to use the product near daily) and I usually only manage to achieve the feat with cream products and pressed powder. I've never used up an eye shadow and can't imagine doing so! I'm currently trying to use up:

• Laura Mercier Praline Creme Cheek Color
  
• Lancome Rouge Attraction in Seismic, a color I've previously purchased (and subsequently sold) back ups of. This is why I no longer buy back ups! I ultimately get sick of a color or move on to a new favorite!
• Chantecaille Pegasus Super Lip Sheer
• Besame Champagne Lipstick

I'm slowly making progress! Granted I'll still have too many products after these are gone, but at least it's a temporary sense of accomplishment! Are you trying to use anything up?

Sigh...Another QVC Purchase

What is it about watching makeup on television at 2 in the morning that can strip an otherwise rational person of their willpower? Somehow this little goody made it into my cart and through the checkout process. I think the words glow, natural, and peachy pink were involved!
Meet Laura Geller's Baked Blush and Highlight in Como/Portofino. For those who haven't heard Laura's schpiel, these baked products begin with several shades in liquid form, swirled together, and are baked on a little terracotta pan until they achieve this light, smooth powder consistency. This product has a small triangle shaped highlighter in a soft golden shade, and the rest of the product is a delicate light warm pink that yields a radiant flush on the cheek. The the shade is on the lighter side so it's best for the fairer complected. Laura herself says that this is the most natural of the Blush and Brighten franchise. If you've found her previous shades too deep, give this one a try.

Peachy Pinks and Pearly Champagne Courtesy of Bobbi Brown

If you go through my vast makeup collection, you'll notice a theme pretty quickly! As hard as a try to have a well-rounded collection and purchase a good variety of products, the vast majority of my blushes, lipsticks and glosses are some shade of peachy pinks! Two of my current favorites are from Bobbi Brown: Maui Illuminating Bronzing Powder and Baby Creamy Lip Color.

The Illuminating Bronzing Powder ($33) is a pearly powder in a coral pink color that I apply with Bobbi's Face Blender Brush ($40). While I wouldn't use this shade as a bronzer, it does give a gorgeous happy, 'sunburned' look, like you just got back from, well...Maui! I don't find the shimmer to be over the top on my fair skin.
Bobbi Brown's Creamy Lip Color ($22) is designed to be a smooth, conditioning lipstick with a soft, creamy shine. The formula is not my favorite--I find it to be slightly too think and it seems to evaporate rather quickly--but I love the shade so much I'll use up and repurchase this shade which is quite a feat for me! Bobbi describes Baby as "an icy nude pink." When I see the word "icy" I automatically think "cool" and this shade is definitively warm toned. It is the perfect sheer, natural, warm peachy pink shade that I've found myself reaching for over and over. The shade is so easy to wear and looks polished but not over the top. I have very full lips and darker shades can prove overwhelming, but this one is right on. I've heard that Bobbi Brown's regular Lip Color ($22) in Gilded Pink is similar in color so that one is on my wishlist!

Just as I collect peachy pink lip and cheek products, I have an array of champagne shimmery shadows as well, and Bobbi Brown's Champagne Quartz Metallic Eye Shadow ($20) is one I wear very often. The texture of these shadows is so creamy and pigmented. The color you see in the pot is what you see on the lids, and while I normally use brushes to apply my shadows, I find that if I use my finger with this one it maintains that metallic look on the lid. Champagne Quartz is a golden ever so slightly pink champagne that is neither too warm nor too cool. It works as a daytime shade for work and an evening out glam look. A pretty and versatile product!

Jouer Cosmetics

click on the images to enlarge

This is the second incarnation of Jouer Cosmetics. The first version was available at Sephora and featured a variety of cream-based products in small, white, rectangular, windowed compacts that could connect to one another along their sides. That version disappeared, and the current Jouer line emerged, available so far exclusively at Henri Bendel and at jouercosmetics.com.

Jouer has a variety of cosmetic items from concealers to foundations, blushes, tube glosses, shadows and more, many of which click together not only along the sides, but front to back so that you can create your own personalized travel stack.

I currently have two powder eye shadows ($20 each). Caramel is a soft warm brownish gold with a tiny hint of copper. It creates a lovely natural but defined eye look, but I find it prone to getting that hard "layer" on the surface of the shadow that I often have to scrape away. It is also not particularly pigmented and needs to be applied with a stiff, dense brush for color payoff.

Amaretto, on the other hand, is smooth an pigmented and glides on and blends wonderfully. It is a very complex pewter taupe with gold shimmer and a hint of bronze and plum. It's perfect for a soft smokey look or in the crease, with Caramel or another base shadow, for a subtle defined smolder. This is a unique shade and a favorite.

The Tint in Petal is another product that I like. The Tints ($20) are designed to be creamy multi-use lip and cheek colors. Jouer describes Petal as a "soft rose pink" but there is definitely a warm, almost hint of coral undertone to my eye. These blend onto cheeks with fingertips and have no sticky afterfeel.

I use the Age Repairing Brightener ($32) and Age Repairing Concealer ($24) under my eyes, the Brightener followed by the concealer. The Brightener has a thinner consistency with more slip and comes in a swivel up tube. It is designed to illuminate and fight free radicals. I don't notice an illuminating effect, but the emollient ingredients keeps the concealer, which is heavily pigmented but has a very dry texture, from caking under my eyes. These aren't holy grail products, but do a fine job. I'm not a huge fan of either alone, but they work synergistically.

I bought the Eye Definer ($20) in Olive after reading that it was used on Frieda Pinto for an awards show where her eye makeup was particularly gorgeous. It's a pretty gold-shimmered olive and glides on, but isn't pigmented enough to create a real definition or me. The color is lovely though, especially when layered over a black liner.

Feature Focus: Unsung Heros

I wanted to highlight some unsung heroes--tried and true never-fail products that seem to fly under the radar. Products that you never see in magazines, rarely hear raved about. I'm sure that everyone has some of these unsung heroes in their arsenal--please post about them in the comments!
Darphin Blush Sensation in Soleil Sublime:

This is bar none the most beautiful, natural looking bronzer I've ever used. I'm quite fair and on the pinker side, and this has absolutely no orange in it. It features a gentle color gradation so you can customize your look depending on how much 'sun' you want that day! The shimmer is super-subtle and doesn't accentuate lines and wrinkles, just lends itself to a gentle glow. It costs $40 and is available at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

MAC Lilicent Blushcreme:

This cream blush has a unique love it or hate it texture. It's almost akin to a potted lipstick in that it's somewhat thick and remains dewy on the cheeks. This helps you look 'fresh' all day but if you're used to a cream to powder formula, this may take a bit of getting used to. The color is a real face brightener, and never fails to brighten my complexion with its warm, peachy rose hue. It is $18.50 and available on maccosmetics.com and at MAC counters nationwide.

Lancome Artliners:

Colors left to right are: Socialite, Brown, IceBlack, IceCarob and Star Shower
In my opinion, these little wonders stand alone in the liquid liner category. They are the easiest liquid liner and you can easily create a thin line right at the base of the lashes or thicker cat eye due to the unique flexible applicator that allows you to control the product. Unlike felt tip dispensers where the product may flow through inconsistently or only with pressure, these unique wands dip into the product and just enough comes out to create a perfect line every single time. The shades are gorgeous, although many of the unique ones are available on a limited edition basis. These are $28.50 and available wherever Lancome is sold.

Eye Necessities:

-Bare Escentuals Eye Shadow in Soul- the perfect vanilla base, this shadow is shimmer free (you can see the faintest glimmer in the pot which prevents lids from looking crepey but doesn't add a sparkle).
-Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Linen- the palest pink that brightens lids, creates the perfect base so your shadow lasts and the pigment appears true, and even works on its own for a natural eye look.
-Laura Mercier Baked Cakes Eye Liner in Key Lime/Dark Green Apple with Brush- gorgeous, baked, shimmery greens and a perfect brush for application. Use these wet or dry for a look less harsh than black but still achieve ample definition. I use the dark shadow on my upper lid and the light shadow to line underneath.
-Benefit Kohl Pencil Eye Liner in Sable- the only product I use on my inner rim. It lasts and lasts without iritation and glides on smoothly. The shade of brown is spot on--not too light or too dark.

Tools:

-MAC 208 brush- a very thin synthetic angle brush for precise gel eye liner application.
-Chanel Brush 3- a great brush for applying shadow to the outer corner. The bristles are densely packed and the thicker handle is weighted for easy application.
-Fresh Eye Definer Brush 20- the BEST crease brush, this is soft and perfectly shaped for the perfect placement and depth of color.
-Sephora Brand Professionnel Flat Blush Brush #42- perfect for small faces and the tapered point places the blush exactly where you want it to go.
-Tarte Eyelash Curler- this has never pinched my lids the way other highly-touted brands have and the lilac is so cute!

Rock & Republic Cosmetics-Blushes and Lips

Rock & Republic is a company probably best known for 2 things: jeans and an outlandishly priced $225 bronzer. When the line debuted the bronzer in the crystal-adorned case was featured in numerous magazines and on QVC and the uproar on beauty boards over the price seemed to eclipse the fabulous quality and more reasonable prices of the other products. Don't get me wrong--these babies are not cheap--shadows are $28, powder blush is $40, pressed powder is $44, mascara is $28--but the eye shadows and blushes are simply some of the best I've ever tried. The formulas and smooth and creamy and blend like a dream. The packaging is heavy, super luxe, and just makes you feel special. Even the boxes are spectacular. I've managed to amass quite a little collection, which I'll cover over a few posts. Click on the pictures to enlarge.

The Imitate mousse blushes are currently available in 3 shades, and I have 2 of them. The texture is a light, airy, whipped mousse that easily blends onto the cheek and morphs to resemble skin. Quickie looks pale baby aspirin orange in the pot but blends to a soft peach with a hint of glimmer.

Rumor is a neutral to warm light rose.

These retail for $28 each.

The powder blushes are real stars. They are enormous and the packaging is heavy enough to hurt a toe should you unfortunately drop one! The powder blushes are $40 each but are significantly larger than most blushes--I can't see ever using one up! The blushes may look merely pretty in the pan, but it's the way the blend on the skin that is truly amazing. They create a sophisticated yet girlish glow that would enhance anyone's complexion! Spank has an unbelievably smooth texture and is a pale cloud pink that looks cool in the pot, but neutral on the skin.

Call Me is the must-have blush of the line. It's a peachy-pink shimmer a la NARS Orgasm but less pink and with no chunky sparkle.

I also received a mini of the line's wand lip gloss in Vacant as a gift with purchase. The colors are smooth and creamy and paraben-free, which I really appreciate. Vacant is a sheer softly brown nude. These are $26 each and very nice but not knock-your-socks-off, gotta-have-it wonderful.


Within the Rock & Republic line is the Noir Collection, consisting of 2 eye shadow palettes at $65 each and 2 potted lip glosses that come with a retractable lip brush and clock in at $35 for the set. The packaging of the gloss is heavy! The case is a weighted metal with a small magnet to keep the flip top lid closed and the pair comes packaged in a large chic presentation case. I have Confession, a soft mauvey pink with lovely shimmer.

BECCA Beach Tint Raspberry

Blush isn't really my thing, but I do agree that it does make a difference to my face and makes me look alive.

I love BECCA products, I like the lightness of textures and the incredible range of shades in the foundations, concealers and powders.

I got this free with a buy 2 products and get another thrown in, probably from beautyexpert which tends to do offers like this from time to time.

I really do like this product - it smells deliciously fruity and yes quite like raspberries. It needs a good shake as it can separate, the texture is gel like.

It is pretty much an exact match for my thread veins, and whilst it does not last all day, I can get a good 5+ hours out of it, by then I am usually flushed enough to negate the need for reapplication.

It can be worn on the lips and does last, but more like 2-3hrs depending on oral intake during that time.

Currently £20 from Becca, beautyexpert and £19 from zuneta

NARS Blush/Bronzer Trio

I bought this for me, I wanted to see what all the fuss was around
Orgasm/Laguna, and well Albatross gets pretty good reviews as a highlighter...so

I think that this is a very well constructed package (snigger) it is sleek, sturdy and stylish to me. But I know that I won't use it, I won't, it represents to me all that is complicated about makeup:

Powder blush - can't do it. I have colour in my cheeks as it is, I can just about weedle a creme blush if I can be bothered and believe me everyone really does look better with a bit of blush, but I find it difficult enough to avoid the Aunt Sally with a cream texture and as for powder, well forget it, it is like advanced driving, to be undertaken only if the advantages outway the slog.

Bronzer - of any sort I have never gotten the hang of. As previously mentioned my skin tone is *ruddy porcelain* ie pale but thread veined and freckles-which-merge-into-one-big-block-of-age-spotness. The colour of the aforementioned brown bits of my face is akin to a bronzer colour anyway, I just look naff.

Highlighter - I like highlighters, I sort of feel that with enough natural colour albeit unwanted in my face, the paleness and moonlight gleamness of a highlighter can confuse the eye and restore my paleness. That said the shade of albatross is somewhat warm yellow gold, not good on me.

So this palette beautiful as it is remains looked at and occasionally stroked awaiting 25th December when I can palm it off as a present for my sister.

Mood Blush (a.k.a. NARS Turks and Caicos)

I used to love those Mood lipsticks when I was younger. You applied a completely outlandish lipstick shade like blush or yellow and before your eyes the shade morphed into something wearable (actually it usually turned hot pink on me but you get the idea). This is how I feel about NARS Multiple Tint in Turks and Caicos--it's a neon orange in the tube yet somehow, magically, it become a coral pink flush on my cheeks.

I am completely enamored with concept of cheek tints. Translucent stains that impart both a sheer color and a glow? Too perfect. When I heard about the NARS Multiple Tints ($38) I was initially thrilled and then deflated when I saw the limited shade selected: a bright pink, a fuchsia and an orange? Not for me. I'm so pleased that I decided to actually swatch the colors! While Beverly Hills and Cadaques are both beautiful though indeed not for me (I can't wear cool blushes), Turks and Caicos transformed before my eyes into a perfect summer "I've been drinking Long Island Ice Teas in the sun" flush and once applied, lasts all day. I appreciate that it's not shimmery and remains ever so slightly dewy after it's set. It's the perfect thing to wear when you want to look like you just woke up vibrant and rested, not made up.

I have no idea if NARS intended this alchemy or if it was merely a happy accident, but either way I plan to make Turks and Caicos a summer staple.